Dia de Muertos (Day of the Dead) in SMA, 2017

One of my goals in coming to SMA was to develop a better understanding of the celebration Dia de Muertos.  On Saturday, October 28, Iris and I attended a 2 hour showing of a documentary on the subject at the Biblioteca, which was a good introduction on the subject.  It explained the origins of the celebration that started in pre-Columbian times, going back 2,000 - 3,000 years as a way to honor and remember the dead.

The Catholic Church changed the date of the celebration, which had coincided with the harvesting of corn, to All Saints Day, November 1.  Now it is a national holiday that is celebrated for 2 days beginning on the evening of Holloween, which has been introduced into the traditions by the expats.  Instead of going door to door, everyone gathers in the town center and the children go from person to person getting candy.  The further south you travel in Mexico, the more elaborate the celebrations because the tradition goes back to ancient times and many indigenous people still live there.  SMA is in northern Mexico where it is not celebrated to the same extent because this is where the Spaniards and other Europeans stayed after the invasion. 

After seeing the documentary, I was more appreciative of the service of remembrance the Unitarian Universalist congregation held on Sunday.

I signed the leaf as a remembrance of my granddaughter.  This seemed appropriate as the family approaches the first anniversary of her death on November 16th.

I placed the leaf on the altar.

The completed altar.  This is what Mexican families do in their homes and at the grave sites.

Monday I attended a panel discussion at St. Paul's Anglican Church on the different religious traditions concerning death.

The woman on the left is a member of St. Paul's and she moderated the discussion.  Next to her is a Christian Science Practitioner, next is a young woman who has extrensively studied the ancient practices before the Spaniards came to Latin America, including living for months at a time in remote indigenous villages in Honduras, and the gentleman is Hindu.  While extremely different in practice, the common theme was how to honor and remember the dead.

Beginning a couple of days before Dia de Muertos, families start preparing the grave sites of family members.  

This gentleman was at his family's grave site on Monday, October  30, repainting the railing around the site.

This family is installing a new sign in front of the crypt.  Some caskets are placed inside a wall.  Note the young girl sitting and watching.  There is another wall for ashes.

Children were all over the cemetery.  The 3 on the left had just finished chasing the young boy.  All in good fun.

This grave site is a well maintained garden.  

One of the larger memorials.

This is a new grave site.

It appears the person was from Marshall, Texas.

Any good cemetery needs a couple of good mousers.

They appeared healthy and well cared for.  They certainly were not upset at all the activity around them.

On the evening of Noverber 1st, families gather at the grave sites to share the deceased's favorite foods, share stories of the deceased, and to sing and play games.  Many stay all night.

During this time many believe the spirits of the dead join in the celebration.  There is no fear of the dead.  The costumes many wear - painted faces and skeletons - are meant to invite the spirits to participate in the festivities.  Children are raised attending these events in cemeteries and just grow up accepting the costumes, etc., as part of their lives and nothing to fear.

I also noticed on one of my walks to town a casket maker's shop with samples in the front window within inches of people walking by.  Certainly nothing to hide. 

It seems to me that in the US we go to great lengths to avoid the entire subject of death.  We don't say someone has died, we say he/she has passed, or refer to the person as "the late" (insert name). I'm always reminded of a George Carlin routine on the subject when he said "He's not late, he's not coming."  I like the Mexican acceptance of death and their willlingness to acknowledge the reality of death and that it is not something to ignore.

  

Life Long Learning is Alive and Well in SMA, 10/21/17

The Life Long Learning group in SMA is a terrific organization but its structure is very different from the ones in the US.  It is not affiliated with any university or community college and you do not join.  You pay just for the classes you want to attend.  Being a history nut, I signed up for the all-day seminar on President Diaz and the Mexican Revolution.

All LLI classes are held in the Instituto Allende which is a huge facility within an easy walk from my apartment.  As with most buildings in SMA the front gives no hint about the beauty inside.

Students heading into the auditorium.

Please note this amazing cat.  It lives at the Institute and is obviously well cared for and pampered.  When the lecture started he/she (not sure and I wanted to respect its privacy) jumped from the desk and took a seat in the second row.  It stayed there for the entire 2 hours and every once in while you'd see its head pop up and look around as if checking to see if we were paying attention.  It meowed right when it was time to break for lunch.  During the afternoon session it curled up in a woman's lap who was not taking notes and stayed there the entire time.  During the playing of some of the Revolutionary songs, it actually loudly meowed along.  Obviosly pro-Revolution.  Very funny.

The gentleman is Jesus Ibarra.  He is well known in SMA because he is the retired editor of the local English/Spanish Friday newspaper - the MUST read if you want to know what's going on in and around the town.  Jesus is also a movie critic who has written 2 books on Mexican cinema.  Like all instructors at LLI SMA, he volunteered his time.

The staff of the Institute prepared a lovely lunch for us that was served on the patio.  The entire day, including lunch cost $425.00 pesos or only $18/US.  I can't get over how inexpensive everything is in SMA!

During lunch I sat with a group of the volunteer history

tour guides.  My tour guide from the privous week was at the table.  This is another group of very dedicated volunteers whose efforts support a local childens dental clinic.  I was facinated to hear their stories as to why they were in SMA, for how long, etc.  Each had a unique and interesting story to tell.

After lunch I wandered around looking at the lovely grounds and found some of the art studios used by the students of the Institute.

It seems not matter where you are, you have a view of the Parroquia.

Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, October 12 - 14, 2017

You must have your camera at the ready at all times because you just never know what you're going to see.

Lots of people use ATV's but this is the 1st time I've seen someone checking her phone while zooming along.

Not all buildings are gorgeous.  This green monstrosity is the community center for a gated community in my neighborhood.  If I could vote, it would get "Ugliest Building in MSA."

Here's the Bird Lady.  Look closely - she's covered and 1 is about to land on her head.  Sometimes I think SMA has taken "Keep Austin Weird" to a whole new level.

No one in SMA uses garbage cans. By hanging  trash bags on hooks it keeps critters  getting into them.  One morning I heard a very LOUD bell.  I went to the door and a guy was running down the street  ringing a huge bell, letting everyone know the garbage truck was coming.  Sure enough it was 2 blocks behind him and some neighbors were bringing out their garbage.

Firday I took the History Walking Tour sponsored by group who volunteer their time and all funds raised from the tours go to support a children's dental clinic.  Any tour of SMA is going to include a lot of churches.

 Templo Inmaculada Concepcion

My tour guide was Patrick Green who lives in SMA for 5 months each year and the rest of the time in Oregon.

Patrick explained why there is a statue of St. Patrick in the Parroquia.  Turns out lots of Irish abandoned General Pershing during the scurmishes with Pancho Villa which by many is considered part of the Mexican Revolution.  At this time in US history the immigrants that were being  mistreated were the Irish (seems there's always some group being mistreated).  Mexico promised equality and opportunities which led to some switching sides.  

The Parroquia  is in excellent condition.  Learned that the federal government owns all church buildings and the   church administers them.    Some newer church buildings are owned by the congregation.  This floor  didn't look hundreds of years old inspite of the constant use.  The design actually goes all the way through the tiles so the design will never fade.

Another view of the Parroquia

Friday evening I joined friends for a visit to two art shows and dinner.  I met Andrew Ostra and fell in love with some of his work. He is from Ukraine, studied in Toronto, and has lived in SMA for several years.  Some of his landscapes of the city are spectacular.  He is moving to Oaxaca because that where is girl friend is.

Andrew

Something Renee will like.  I like his scenes of SMA.

Saturday I attented my first photo club meeting at Jo's gallery.  Her mother was an expat and Jo actually grew up in SMA.  

Several of the attendees were professional and a few were like me - strictly amateur.  We watched an inspiring video by a photographer who was speaking to Google designers.  Following the video there was a general discussion.

This video is available on You Tube.

The gallery space before the meeting.

Following the meeting, another walk home to see what I could see.

Sorry about the reflection, but as I passed the Parroquia I noticed there was a wedding ceremony going on.

I was going by the park near my apartment when I spotted a photo shoot with a professional photographer.  He had these students in a very formal, serious, no smiles pose.  When he finished I asked if I could take a photo and this is the pose I got.  He looked horrified.

It's hard to pass my local bakery and I saw that there was a van outside ready to pick up a wedding cake.  I had to have a photo of the cake and the young man who was so proud of it.

The empanadas from this bakery are amazing, not to mention the pies, cookies, etc.  All terrific.

Tuesday and Wednesday, October 10 and 11, 2017

After Monday in Delores Hidalgo, Lucille and I decided to just walk around El Centro in SMA and enjoy the sights on her last day.

Another gorgeous park.

This is the church all pregnant women visit to pray for a safe delivery and healthy baby.  Church of our Lady of Good Health.

We went into St. Francis.

Side view of Church of St. Francis

What the well dressed Latina drives.

We found the large market just north of El Jardin - the garden across from the large church that is considered the heart of SMA.  In this market you can find food, tires, jewlery, clothing, etc.  The only thing I didn't see was electronics.  I do not understand their business model.  There were rows and rows of stalls all selling the same stuff and at the same price.  I guess it works but how?

Bicycle tires next to boots - typical of the "organization" of the market.

Poster seen in the market.  They still kill the bulls in Mexico so I think I'll skip this event.  Going native does have its limits.

The Madonna of the Market (not anything you'd see in Safeway, etc.)

Lunch was at the Biblioteca.

Lucille at lunch.

We don't just go from 1 place where we eat to the next, but I didn't take a lot of photos this afternoon.

For her last dinner in SMA, we went to the fancy hotel in our neighbor, HRS.

Another 1st - a Rotary celebration of Octoberfest - a pool party!

I won't be going.

Wednesday I had some time on my own - time to do the laundry and some other basic chores.  I was fortunate to be invited to a dinner party given by a friend who has been spending time in SMA for 20 years and 2 years ago moved here permanently.

Judith Hightower from Austin, Louise Levy from North Carolina but lived in Baltimore for many years, Jo Cartwright from Dallas, and Lorraine Flett from Scotland.  A lively group of strong women.

Judith's sweet little Bear.  Dogs may be mandatory in SMA because everyone seems to have 1.