While I still have friends living in SMA and I'm sure the cultural delights are still available for tourists, there are some changes you need to know before you go. Under the current president of Mexico the petroleum pipelines were closed after a terrible fire. This caused distribution of petroleum to shift to tanker trucks which were easy targets for hijackers. Since major routes go through the state of Guanajuato cartels moved in. Until January of 2019 Guanajuato State was considered one of the safest in the country.
The first sign of trouble in SMA was the execution of some restaurant owners, including a mother and daughter in front of their establishment. It also appears that the mayor was bought off. My friend, Michael Tolleson Robles and his partner were driven out, leaving behind a new million dollar home, 5 B&B apartments, and their lovely gallery. Guess the macho members of cartels do not like gays or Michael refused to pay for "protection". Michael and his partner are now safely and happily living in Merida, which is considered the safest city in Mexico.
So, should you still plan a visit? I suggest checking with the Dept. of State and any local news outlets available. As previously stated, I still have friends living there and they are doing very well.
Also, if you go, double check everything. For example I know the American restaurant moved before the pandemic, so if it's still open it will be at a new address from the one mentioned below.
San Miguel de Allende from the overlook
Recently a friend ask for some recommendations about San Miguel de Allende. Well, the lesson she learned is to be careful what you ask for, you just might get way more than you anticipated. After writing three very long emails to her and having a terrific time reliving all the things I did while I was there, it occured to me to preserve the information. So here it is but consider these just suggestions because, as in all travels, the best thing is just to wander around and find your own delights.
GENERAL INFORMATION AND GETTING THERE
First, let's end the pain of having to say "San Miguel de Allende". Once there or referring to it to someone familiar with the city, you just need to say "SMA." That's so much easier.
WHERE TO STAY
SMA is divided into neighborhoods. I stayed in Guadiana and I highly recommend it because it is close to everything and fairly easy walking, meaning it’s not straight up and down as some neighborhoods are.
Typial street scenes in Guardiana
The Guardiana neighborhood park.
Second best neighborhood is San Antonio.
Parish that is the heart of San Antonio and the bells that woke me most mornings at 6:30.
You should avoid staying in the heart of the central district unless you really like loud music until 2 am. Lots of bars and lots of people partying until the wee hours. Weekends are especially crowded because the rich citizens of Mexico City are making SMA their weekend party place.
Speaking of noise - no matter where you stay you will hear church bells and fireworks ALL THE TIME and for no apparent reason. There are celebrations for everything - getting a promotion at work, having an anniversary, a birthday, anything! Someone said loud Americans like to live quiet lives; quiet Mexicans like to live loud lives. You’ll see this played out in SMA. By "loud Americans" they think we are loud in restaurants, walking down the street, etc.
GETTING AROUND
A word about walking - WATCH YOUR STEP. Everyone eventually joins a club no one wants to be in - The Fallen Women of SMA. I joined first night I was there - broke my glasses and almost my nose. Good thing I always travel with an extra pair of glasses.
Cabs are very inexpensive but best to write down where you want to go as many drivers do not speak English.
There are two international airports in Guanajuato State but neither in SMA. The good news is each is close and there is a wonderful shuttle service that provides front door service to and from and when I was there only cost $22/US plus tip for the driver.
Here’s the link to the shuttle service, BajioGo.
http://www.bajiogoshuttle.com
You can go online and make your reservations and prepay with a credit card. In this instance you will be perfectly fine (see below for exceptions). You’ll still have to tip the driver - US dollars are loved, so don’t worry about having to get pesos before you go but you will need pesos in SMA. If you're not sure when you are returning, BajioGo has an office near El Jardin (the center of town) on Jesus street south of the intersection with Umaran.
WARNING!
In March 2018 there was a hijacking of one of the shuttle limos taking one passenger to the airport in Quiretero at 2 am. The problem with this airport is many of the flights leave very early and require taking highways in the middle of the night when there is little traffic. If possible, fly in and out of Leon or go the day before your flight and spend the night in a motel near the airport. No one was hurt, but the American lost everything - passport, other ID's, and all possessions. He and the driver were left out in the desert and had a very long walk back to the highway.
DOLLARS/PESOS
The only thing I didn’t like was SMA is a cash economy but everyone discouraged me from using credit cards as people living there didn’t think it was safe in some of the restaurants and shops, and cabs do not accept credit cards. I did use ATM’s to get pesos but AMX is not accepted.
WATER
Another frustration was the "don't drink the water" rule. They are very serious about this and you must carry bottled water with you everywhere, even when brushing your teeth. As in all things, it was a hassle until it became a habit.
TRAFFIC IN SMA
A word about traffic -
be polite! While I was there I never heard a car horn. Amazing. SMA's population is around 100,000 with lots of vehicles of all sorts (ATV's are allowed) yet there are no stop lights or stop signs. When pedestrians step off the curb, traffic stops. When walking try to find an official cross-walk to help keep the traffic flowing. Again, weekends can be different as out-of-towners bring their driving habits to town. Be careful when crossing streets.
The first two places any new comer to SMA should go to are the Tourist Information Office that faces the big church from the opposite side of El Jardin. You should get one of their street maps and never leave home without it. It's easy to get turned around and the map will help.
Parroquia from the north-west corner of El Jardin (the garden)which is the center of SMA.
The second place to go is the public library - Biblioteca. This is the cultural heart of the city. There are classes, concerts, and movies offered here as well as tickets to various tours and performances. There is a small but nice cafe. Also, it's one of the places where you can purchase the weekly bilingual newspaper that always has a weekly calendar of all events in the city. Most coffee shops also sell the newspaper.
One of the classes offered at the Biblioteca
The lovely courtyard in the library.
RESTAURANTS AND GROCERY SHOPPING
There is a gentleman who has lived in SMA many years and blogs about the restaurant scene. His followers vote on the best new restaurant, best brunch, etc. each year. Look for his lists. This is the link to his blog:
My preferred restaurants all have one thing in common - they are an easy walk from the apartment I had.
This is my favorite of all the restaurants I enjoyed. Go on a Friday night to hear an expat play classical guitar. Try to get a table on the patio, otherwise you won’t be able to hear him. I suggest going around 6:30, it will start filling up after 7 and he arrives shortly thereafter. Typically there are 2 seatings at restaurants in SMA - early for gringos and late for natives.
Notice the art on the walls. I purchased one of Andrew Osta’s paintings and he brought it to my apartment for me 2 days before he and his family moved to Oaxaca. Nice young man from Ukraine who trained in Toronto.
Casa del Diezmo.
If you want to try something a little different, this is a Yucatan restaurant. It doesn’t have a web site but the address is Jesus 36 Centro, SMA. The differences are subtle compared to the local Mexican restaurants but very enjoyable. It also has a great wine list.
Restaurante Lolita.
It, too, is without a web site, but the address is Salida a Celaya 52. It is further from the central district but on the way to the supermarket and just past the organic market (see below) and it is great for brunch. It has great tequila sunrises.
Lavanda.
Located at Calle del Dr Ignacio Hernandez Macias 87. It is considered the best place for breakfast or brunch but the line can be long. It has terrific and unusual breakfast casseroles and an amazing coffee bar with a very talented barista.
Lucille enjoys one of the casseroles.
La Frontera.
If you need a touch of home cooking or good vegetarian options, try this American owned cafe. The address is Stirling Dickinson 28 Local 7, Plaza Pueblito. It has chopped liver, matzo ball soup, and the best baked sweet potato you’ll ever have.
This is the baked sweet potato. Delish!
Each day they have a different US “comfort food”. All I can remember is Mondays is meatloaf. Closed on Sundays. Finding it can be a little tricky because it’s tucked out of sight in a small strip mall. The “local” # is the shop number. At first I thought - “terrific, these are union shops!” Ghees. Always the liberal.
The Rosewood Hotel.
For the most spectacular view while having cocktails, go to the roof-top bar at the Rosewood Hotel. This is a stunning hotel so take time to stroll around the grounds. This is a favorite site for destination weddings, complete with fireworks (of course). It’s also near Jardin Juarez, the largest park in SMA and a lovely place for a stroll. It is very crowded on weekends.
A view of the grounds of the Rosewood Hotel
The view from the roof top bar at the Rosewood Hotel
An interesting note about the local government: There is no city Parks and Recreation Department. The parks were created by the neighbors and they are responsible for their maintenance.
Starbucks.
If you must have a Starbucks, there is one right on the corner of El Jardin - the heart of SMA.
Doce 18.
This coffee shop/bakery/deli is at Rolox 18 just off the square. It’s really part of a hotel and shopping mall - very high end. After coffee and either a really good pastry or sandwich and soup, wander back - way back. You’ll find the best restroom in the central district. THIS IS IMPORTANT! Some of the nicest restaurants have really awful restrooms and you can’t flush toilet paper down the toilet in any of them, even this one - you’ll find a little waste basket for your disposals.
In this shopping mall you will also find a wine tasting room for wines from a local winery. The reds are spectacular but for better prices there is a wine shop on Canal just off the square called La Europa.
If you go to or by Doce 18, but sure to see the Stars of David above the doors. Originally this was the home of the first Jewish family in SMA and they were from Syria. They arrived during the colonial period according to the guide on the history walking tour.
Grocery Shopping
If you’re going to do any cooking at home of just have yogurt for breakfast, the 1st place to shop is the organic market near the corner of Sterling Dickerson and San Antonio -
Mercado Sano, Ancha de San Antonio 123. This isn’t one store, it is lots of individual vendors on 3 levels, including a food court. One of the restaurants is a Seri Lankan restaurant. It is very good and they offer cooking classes. On Saturdays the market uses the alley for a farmers market. If you do purchase fresh produce, don’t forget to get some special disinfectant that is sold everywhere.
Next door on the corner is Oxxo (oxzo).
You'll find these stores all over town. Think 7-11. Good place to buy bottled water but for everything else check the expiration date because they don't.
If you need to go to a supermarket there is La Comer.
You'll think you wandered into a US supermarket.
It is a cab ride from anywhere. Don’t worry about getting one after shopping. There is always a line of cabs at the entrance, just like at an airport. Another nice thing about shopping here is there are 4 ATMS's lined up near one of the entrances.
TOURS
A terrific group of volunteer expats offer walking tours of the historic district. All proceeds go to support medical care for children. This is a great way to get the feel of the city. This tour is not organized through the library (Biblioteca) so just show up and pay. It starts across from the big church at the gate into El Jardin. Enough volunteers will be hanging around to keep groups small. Look for people wearing name tags. For days and time, see the newspaper.
This same organization also has a monthly architectural tour but you’ll have to check the calendar in the weekly newspaper to see if it’s offered while you are there. My tour guide was an architect from NYC who splits his time between homes. He was excellent.
While my tour included a fabulous lunch, it wasn’t at a ranch and I’m pretty sure I booked it through the Biblioteca. Check there first to see if they are offering this tour. If not, this company could be a backup.
I really enjoyed my tour of the botanical garden, el Charco del Ingenio. You can take a shuttle from El Centro or a cab. As I recall, the tours start at 10 am but they’re not available every day. Again, check the newspaper.
My tour guide. She had just removed a sleeveless vest and put it in her backpack. Note the long sleeves to avoid sun burn, the water and hat - all essentials for the perfectly dressed visitor.
LIVE PERFORMANCES
ProMusica is an amazing organization that brings world class musicians in for concerts at a small % of what you'd pay to hear them in the states. In the spring they produce a full opera with well known artists. I paid $15/US to hear Jenny Lin. Tickets for her most recent performance at Carnegie Hall started at $250. The concerts are usually at St. Paul's because of the amazing acoustics and large reception area for post-performance receptions.
Look in the weekly schedule to see what performances are scheduled in the local theaters. I attended Shelter Theater.
SHOPPING
To start this list, the “must see” place is the Ingnacio Ramirez Market which sort of connects to the Artisan Market. It goes on for ever - where else can you see bicycle wheels hanging next to apples. It’s what tourists think of when wanting to see an authentic Mexican market.
For a total contrast go see the very modern, upscale Fabrica de Aurora. It gets it’s name because it was originally a fabric plant. I found the history of the place as interesting as the shops. This is a hike up a hill with lots of winding roads. Take a cab.
There are lots of galleries and antique furniture stores.
One of the dress shops is owned by designer Christopher Fallon.
He is the uncle of the actor Sarah Fallon in Staunton at the American Shakespeare Center. He and his wife have been in SMA over 20 years.
Don’t hesitate to wander into places because you really can’t “judge a book by it’s cover”. Some of the most surprising finds were because I just went in. One such find was a shop owned by a fellow Texan who designs hand-painted cowboy boots. All I remember is it’s located on same street as the Museo de Historica de Allende (just to the west of the Parroquia).
For gorgeous handcrafts, go to the Saturday/Sunday market just south of the Art Institute on San Antonio - you’ll also pass an amazing furniture store but it doesn’t look like a furniture store. It has antique canoes decorating the front and entrance with a large fountain at the entrance. Once in, lots of very expensive, upscale modern furniture. But back to the weekend market - lots of handmade items, most local but some from as far away as Oaxaca.
ART
Art? Oh my, there are galleries everywhere. One fun shop - pottery and hand-painted dresses is owned by a woman from Canada who is also the artist. Her shop is on the corner of Aldama and Terrapien. My feeble memory says her name is Pilar.
BTW, Aldama is the MOST expensive street in SMA. You will walk by a $4 million home but you won’t know it from the outside. It’s over 8,000 sq ft. with a pool on the roof. Around the corner is the historic home where the Inquisition was held - only house in SMA with a basement. Hmmm - not too hard to figure out what went on there.
Check the weekly calendar for art openings. One of the fun places to go for an opening is the B and B Case de le Noche. Look for the photo of the “ladies of the night” who made the place famous. Now it’s a lovely inn that caters to women’s groups. I went on a Thursday night for an art exhibit and the owner and staff were preparing to welcome a sorority reunion group for the weekend.
My favorite artist, Michael Tolleson Robles, in SMA is someone I met because I dropped into the local Kiwanis Club weekly meeting and he was the guest speaker. He and his partner have a gallery on Aldama. They are autistic and Michael is considered an artistic savant (never took a class in art). He also suffers from an inability to recognize faces. Good thing I have this Texas accent - that’s how he knew me. Here’s a short video of him.
Yes, George and I bought one of his paintings. It’s of Aldama Street with it’s view of the Parroquia.
I am not a member of the Kiwanis. They welcome visitors. Same for the local Life Long Learning group - I spent an entire day with them learning about the 2nd Mexican Revolution. Heard about the role US corporations played - something not taught in US high schools.
SPANISH CLASSES
There are lots of places offering Spanish classes. I recommend the Waren Hardy Spanish School.
https://warrenhardy.com He opened his school in SMA in 1990 and it's still going strong. Best to have a partner but he'll find 1 for you if necessary. He and his team of instructors are masters of the teaching method he perfected.
SHOES
Decades ago a local woman designed a sandal that became THE shoe for all women in SMA. Even though she's now in her 80's, she still has her shop - Shoes of San Miguel - on Rolox. Most days she's there in all her royal splendar. Here's the shoe that started it all:
It's called the San Miguel Combat Boot
MEDICAL EMERGENCIES
Pharmacies are everywhere and I certainly don’t hope you will need a doctor while there but just in case here’s the contact info on the doctor I recommend: Dr. Jorge Martinez, cell 0444151538832. He’s bilingual and educated in the US.
My friend who lives there recommended him when one of my guests got some stitches infected. We called and he showed up in 30 minutes - yes! he makes house calls. Three days later he checked on her and to see how the lotion he provided was doing, and removed the stitches. Both visits and the medicine came to around $100/US.
FYI - there is a new, modern hospital with a large sign out front - “We Accept Medicare”.
One last thought - it’s a casual place. The Rosewood Hotel’s main dinning room was the only place I saw guys in jackets, but then, not even all of them. Temperatures can swing dramatically during the day - take layers and comfortable walking shoes.
